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Dog House With a View. Antique Double Entrance Dog House. Porch sittin'. Now all that's missing is a glass er, dog bowl of sweet tea. Wooden Barn Dog House.
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And in the winter, the pups can enjoy an ice skating rink. The inside is finished with the same level of craftsmanship as the out.
Everything a dog needs to be comfortable. Frank Lloyd Bite House Gather round, web hoomans, this is a cool story.
Wright was busy designing the Guggenheim but asked the boy to write the next fall. The boy did, and Wright delivered, sending plans for the above dog house.
Still, this is finest example of Prarie School of Barkitecture in existence. The Barkitecture Movement Speaking of Barkitecture — A doggie design movement is sweeping the country and raising money for dogs in need.
Barkitecture events challenge architects, designers, and builders to create dog houses to be auctioned off for charity. Proceeds go to area shelters and rescue groups.
Check out some of the winning designs from Barkitecture in Austin, Texas. These doghouses are puptacular! The house is two stories, features a juliet balcony, clay tile roof, copper gutters, and custom light fixtures.
The inside of the doghouse was designed by interior designer Faye Resnick using premium materials. Want to read more stories? Sign Me Up.
BarkBox BarkShop BarkGood BarkLive BarkBook. The roof and floors are a basic ladder frame with the cross-members let into shallow dados on each side.
The dados are probably overkill - but that's just the way I roll - lol. ALL panels were attached with construction adhesive and mechanical fasteners - either screws or staples.
Basically, the posts have a tongue double half-lap joint that slips down into a square hole formed by the sides of the frame pieces and a filler block.
The easiest way to ensure good alignment of the bolt holes through the frame and post tongue is to assemble the frame, clamp it together, and then drill the holes through your pieces.
A furniture bolt is then slipped through a hole drilled in both the frame and the tongue of the post and threaded into a t-nut secured to the inside of the tongue see illustration.
It sounds more complicated than it is. There is a recess around the hole made with a spade bit for the bolt on both ends to keep the head of the furniture bolt and the flange of the t-nut from interfering with assembly.
Once the corner posts are in and everything is bolted together incidentally, removing these 8 bolts would allow the frame to be disassembled , the bottom OSB is installed, followed by insulation, and then by the "floor" plywood of the structure.
The "top" melamine is installed, the frame insulated, and then the "ceiling" melamine is installed.
All of these use construction adhesive and pneumatic fasteners - mostly staples - to create very strong and torsionally rigid frames.
I decided to prime and paint the frame at this point since I would be using oil-based enamel and it would be the easiest time during construction to move around and get at all the parts.
I was very concerned with moisture and sealing the wood - I wanted to be sure that water would have a very hard time sneaking into the frame and doing any damage.
The roof is constructed much like an airplane wing and is very strong. I needed a shape that would shed water, but not be too steep or uncomfortable for Mac to sit on - and it had to be strong enough to support my weight as well.
The skin needed to be bent to conform to the ribs, and the easiest way is via a technique called "kerf bending" where a series of partial longitudinal cuts "kerfs" are made at increments on the table saw.
The spacing is arbitrary and is based on the thickness of the material and the radius of the curve being bent - it takes a little experimenting but it's easy enough to figure out the spacing using scraps.
These "kerfs" allow the panel to be easily bent over a structure. The kerfs close up as the plywood bends, and if they are filled with something like epoxy or construction adhesive you end up with a strong, curved panel.
I have stood on this roof with nary a creak or groan from the structure - it is very strong. Before attaching the skin, I wanted to make sure that I wouldn't have heat building up inside the roof structure, so I cut holes to act as "eave vents" to facilitate airflow through the roof "chambers.
The roof skin was attached to the ribs with staples and construction adhesive. When the adhesive was dry, I used a belt sander to clean up the edges.
I then primed and painted all of the exposed edges thoroughly - giving it all at least two coats of house paint for a good water seal.
The roof assembly was glued to the top of the main frame with polyurethane construction adhesive and then covered with roofing paper. The mat is pretty heavy, so there's no need to glue it down or secure it at more than two points on the center-line.
This minimal attachment gives the mat the latitude it needs to grow and shrink with temperature changes without curling or bubbling up, and it keeps it from blowing off or sliding off when Mac jumps up or down off of it - it works very well.
To get the structure up off the ground, I needed something strong and non-absorbent - and something that would let me slide the house around on concrete without splintering or falling apart.
Luckily, there is a store in my town that stocks all kinds of damaged shipping goods, unclaimed raw materials, and surplus crap of all descriptions.
It's like a giant garage sale for men - lol. I found a piece of 3" nylon rod in one of the surplus piles which worked perfectly for this application, but I'm sure there are other solutions as well.
I primed and painted the pillars with rattle-can paint to protect them from UV light sunlight breaks the plastic down over time and make them look better, and then attached the assemblies to the bottom frame with screws.
Having the dog house up on "stilts" keeps water away from the structure, makes it harder for critters to crawl up into it, and makes it easier to clean under when blowing off the patio with a leaf-blower.
The walls are simple torsion boxes - very much like the floor and ceiling. They are a pine and foam core skinned in melamine on the inside and textured siding board OSB on the outside.
The opening for Mac was based on his proportions - basically by measuring the height and width of his shoulders he has to duck to get in and out.
You don't want to make the door too big as it will let out too much heat that builds up when the dog is inside in cooler weather.
Breaking from traditional construction, I used miter joints at the corners The outer sheathing panels were cut to the exact size of the sides of the main frame dimensions.
Once the frames were built, foam was cut and fitted to fill the voids in the "solid" parts of the wall. I waited to cut the holes for the door and window until after the panels were glued up - it's much easier to use a pattern bit and a router to cut out the openings after the panels are together as opposed to cutting a hole and then hoping it aligns with your frame.
At this point, the window was installed and sealed with silicone, and the door opening was trimmed out with plastic corner trim.Secure and Private: This pent house could give your pet a private room,keep them safely contained. The roof can also Gmx Desktop Ansicht opened to air the kennel if needed. Show love to your pet and make a home for him Raft Online Spielen your own hands! SAFT AND SECURE DESIGNED:Perfect for pets who love to burrow, Slot Mobile cat and dog cave bed provides degree coverage!